Along the Danube Day 5. (Komarom to Visegrad)

Along the Danube day 5

We had a long day ahead of us as there would be over 50 miles to travel and two ferries to negotiate. There was an option for a bailout boat ride after 34 miles but I had already dismissed this although my cycle guests were still to decide. Sadly breakfast at the hotel didn’t start until an outrageously late 8:30 putting the kibosh on an early start so pedals down wasn’t until 9:30.

Pedals down not until 9:30 on our longest day

The first stretch today was the easiest so far as we travelled for many miles on a flat tarmac towpath. Unfortunately some idiot had planted trees between us and the river so you only got occasional glimpses of it.

Lovely flat offroad start to the day

The only thing of interest was an old roman camp but as the information board was written in foreign I can’t tell you anything about it.

An old Roman camp, apparently

This area is also famous for Hungarian storks (even though we were in Slovakia) and on a detour through a nearby village we were lucky enough to see a nesting family on a handy telegraph post.

Hungarian storks

We finally found a section of towpath where they had removed the trees so you could actually see the Danube. So why they had built a viewing tower at the one place that didn’t need one I just don’t know. But as it was there I had to climb it and capture the view.

View from the unnecessary viewing tower

FACT: the border between Slovakia and Hungary runs right down the middle of the Danube but sadly all the disused border crossings have washed away.

Just as we thought we were making excellent time the path deteriorated into the worst of the week along a gravelly grassy track that went on for several bouncy miles.  All conversation was stopped as full concentration was required to stay upright, which we all managed to do, well done us! 

The worst piece of cycle track of the week

When we eventually got back on tarmac we were cheered up by fields of happy sunflowers planted in all directions, which was nice.

Sunflower tastic

At the start of ride briefing on Saturday our unreliable rep had told us there was a very big basilica here, I think she said the biggest in the world and only one you could see from space or something like that, and I admit you could see it from many miles away as we honed in on lunch. Shocking there had been no coffee or cake opportunities on the route as we pulled in to Esztergom where the boat trip or cycle decision would need to be made.

A very large basilica

We crossed the bridge back into Hungary but there were no obvious signs of any abandoned border crossings. Although this may have been one.

Possibly an abandoned border crossing

We were in need of sustenance so went for the Next cafe, literally. Food was standard Hungarian fare but sadly no cake.

First cafe without cake for sometime

With no persuasion from me my cycling guests had seen sense and would becoming on the cycle option. It would save them the trouble of having to explain to people that they had cycled from Vienna to Budapest apart from the 17 mile bit when they went by boat. Before we left Cathy wanted a photo of the big churchy thing so we cycled up a rare holiday hill for the best snap. Mrs Crusader is not a fan of museums or big churchy things and couldn’t see why we had bothered.

Mrs Crusader was keen to get going rather than look at big churches

From here we were back on a nice stretch of cycle track along an ever widening Danube. During this stretch the border stops being down the middle of the river so despite several planned ferry crossings we would now be in Hungary for the rest of the trip.

Back on nice track and back in Hungary for the rest of the trip

We made it to the first ferry port but the ferry was not due for 40 mins. There there was a cafe here but again no cake so I waited patiently at the front of the queue to make sure we got a place on board before eventually getting to watch the ferry dock.

Waiting for the ferry to dock

We safely alighted the ship and set sail for the other side, but would this be ferry of the day?

Boarding the ferry

The remaining few miles were again on excellent cycle path as the landscape now became hilly rather than the arable fields we had had up to now. Sadly we won’t get the chance to cycle up any of them.

Lots of hills but sadly we wouldn't be cycling up any

We reached the second ferry port and still no cake had been consumed. There were a number of snack bars here and I visited them all with no joy, until at the very last one there was a cake selection. I purchased two examples and excitingly returned to the dockside.

Finally found some cake

There was no time to try it as it was time for boarding but once safely underway we ate the cake and it was pretty poor so no cafes will be added to trip list from this stage.

Eating disappointing cake aboard ship

Our hotel was right by the port and we were glad that it was as we were all rather tired after a long day and no proper cake stops. It is in a small village called Visegrád which you won’t be surprised to hear that King Charles l of Hungary made his residence and therefore the capital of Hungary in 1325.

Tomorrow we ride into Budapest (the current capital) and celebrate our achievement where I’m told there is plenty of cake. Let’s hope so.

Route

Cafe ratings table

Cafe	Drinks	Cake	Atmosphere and Ambiance	Rating
Uferhaus, Orth	7.5	8	8.5	8
Stadt, Helmut	6	7.6	7.1	6.9
Monarchia, Mosonmagyaróvár	8	8.8	7.35	8.05
Kuglof, Gyor	8.47	8.46	7.4	8.11
Piskota, Acs	7.9	8.2	6.65	7.58
Cafe de Luxxe, Komárno	7	8.6	6.45	7.35

Cycle stats 

Route	Miles	Average Mph	Time on Bike	Metres climbed
Vienna to Brataslava	49.13	11.1	4:24	159
Brataslava to Monsonmagyarovar	24.07	11.1	2:10	43
Monsonmagyarovar to Gyor	27.2	10.48	2:35	38
Gyor to Komarom	35.4	10.14	3:29	174
Komarom to Visegrad	49.6	10.86	4:33	183
Visegrad to Budapest
Totals	185.4	10.74	17:11	597