Across the Pyrenees Day 4. (Climbing Col de Peyresourde, Col des Ares, Col de Portet d'aspet)

Across the Pyrenees,

Day 4,

St Lary to Lorp Sentaraille

After yesterday’s climb up the Tourmalet today's ride was meant to feature three more Cols that are TDF regulars although not such famous ones. But first it was time to see how the breakfast croissant at Hotel Pons faired.

An excellent entry for the ultimate croissant 

It proved to be a good one and came out with highest mark to date although it was slightly under cooked in the middle. I’m sure France can still do better.

It was pedals down early as we had a leisurely start down the valley. Last night  Margaret (from Oz) won the vote to become our captain on the road in order to get a peloton organised but I spent the night briefing against her and forced her resignation first thing this morning rightfully giving me the job instead. And we looked pretty damn good.

The excellently organised peloton with only the one gapping gap

It was then time for the opening and longest climb of the day. Col de Peyresourde (9.6km,7% Sv, 11% max, 690m ascent ). This one had dramatic views of the mountains and will feature on the tour this year.

Stunning mountain views on the way up

I was pleased to make it to the top with my maximum KoM points intact (although I seem to be only one counting).

Crossing the summit finishing line 

Leaving the summit I tried to keep pace (and failed) with Andrew on a fast descent to our next stop.

A fast descent down the other side.

Here the cafe scored well as the hot chocolate and coffee was good and had an authentic French feel. 

Today's first stop in a village somewhere in the Pyrenees

However the croissant didn’t really deliver having seen better days.

More average French Croissants

We set off again for the next climb but halfway up we hit the start of a run of bad luck as we found the road had been closed and the rest of the climb was off. As it wasn’t a very steep one, and other members of the group had laid down the gauntlet to challenge my KoM record, I was quite relieved.

Road ahead was closed

So we had to take a detour involving lunch by a small lake or pond as we say in the UK.

Lunch had to be taken by a pond rather than top of a climb

But as we set off round the mountain we got hit by the dreaded freshly tarred road and the ride turned into a hike for a couple of miles as we learnt our lesson from earlier in the week not to cycle on freshly dressed roads (as it ruins your tyres). Unfortunately this approach messed up people’s cleats instead of their tyres and we were delayed for sometime as people had to clean them out.

Walking on freshly topped roads to save our tyres

But with detour over it was off to the start of  our steepest climb this week Col de Portet d'aspet (4.3km,9.5%av,15% max,410m ascent). Not that it’s a race (but it is) I was told that 2 of our group had set off already. Not being a competitive person it was quite out of character as I demanded to know how long ago they had left before leaping on my bike to try and chase them down.

Although the photo doesn't do it justice it was as very steep road

For reasons I've never understood I have always been good at riding up steep hills and as this was very steep I did make it to the top first and collected maximum KoM points (not that anyone’s counting).

Reaching the summit ahead of my rivals (not that they knew they were)

This just left a 25 mile ride to our hotel which was predominantly down hill. Thanks to a breakaway with over 50s team member Paddy (with me in his slipstream) I just snuck into the hotel car park ahead of him for my first stage win, although it’s not a race.

Chasing the group ahead on the way to my first stage win

Despite the disappointment of having to miss a climb we had still covered 84 miles and ascended over 1800m. I had also found the best croissant and cafe to date. Just two more stages and 4 more climbs until we reach the Mediterranean Sea.

Todays Route

Cafe ratings

Hotel du Fronton, Itaxassou. 5.8

Cafe Du Souloe 5.4

Terrace cafe Tourmalet 6.1

Tourmalet summit cafe 5.9

Le Faisan Dore 7.3

Croissant ratings

Venue	Freshness	Frenchness	Flavour	Score
Heathrow	4	3	10.9	17.9
Bellevue hotel	5	4	12.7	21.7
Krakada patisserie, Itxassou	7	7.8	14.1	28.9
L’Auberge de l’Etable, Montory	7.5	7.3	13	27.8
Chez Pierre d’Agos	2	2	6	10
Terrace, Tourmalet	7.8	7.5	16.4	31.7
Top Tourmalet	2	2.5	8	12.5
Hotel Pons	8.1	8	17	33.1
Le Faisan Dore	5.6	6.8	13.8	25.9
10
11
12
13
15

Stats

	Miles	Av Speed (MPH)	Time on Bike (H:M)	Metres climbed
Day 1	81.9	15	5:27	1751
Day 2	71.5	13.37	5:20	2010
Day 3	60	11.4	5:05	2499
Day 4	84	14.7	5:55	1836
Day 5
Day 6
Overall	297.4	13.65	21:47	8096

Across the Pyrenees. Day 3 (Col du Tourmalet followed by Col de Aspin)

Across the Pyrenees,

Day 3,

Agos-Vidalos to St Lary

Today was the Queens stage as we got to the highest point on the tour via the iconic climb of Col du Tourmalet. But more of that later as first it was time for petit dejeuner at Chez Pierre d’agos and croissant testing. I’m sure as you can see from the photo this was not a good one so hopefully there will be better found during the day. It led to me having to endure a full blown breakfast pastry rant from Andrew.

Poor looking croissant offering at breakfast

Everyday starts with a briefing from our French team guide Claude, which consists of some pointing and shrugs as he describes the next bit of the route. We are none the wiser as where we are going but it’s all very French and seems to work.

No one paying attention as next part of route is explained

Despite always setting off as a group as soon as an incline is reached we soon split up with me and Andrew (who is both notoriously hard to please and very old) normally joining up with the other 2 other over 50s into a group full of experience.

The peloton in action

The ride started with a gentle 15 mile uphill stretch to the bottom of Tourmalet and as everyone was a little nervous of what lay ahead then for once the group stayed together in a long peloton. At the foot of the climb we had a break and the best croissant to date although still not the ultimate one.

Better croissants found at the foot of the Tourmalet

Then it was on to the slopes. The road was a consistent 7-8% for the first 10km as we climbed up the valley with the river beside us.

The early part of our iconic climb

After passing the midway point it picked up with a series of switchbacks. I got quite emotional as I thought about the tour coming up here in a few weeks time and the likelihood that I would be getting the King of the Mountains points (although I seem to be the only one counting them) today. As I turned each corner I checked I couldn't see any of my rivals behind me as I pressed on.

Heading to the top

Unfortunately the French authorities were out repairing the roads in preparation for the TdF peloton tarts who don't like pot holes in their roads (I hope the tour never comes to Norfolk then) so I had to stop a couple of times to brush off the stones that were now sticking to my tyres. However the views and thoughts of croissant at the top kept me going.

Views of where we had come up from as I approached the summit

Once at the top it was time for the iconic photo and to test the croissant. 

I wasn't sure of the statue meant that your were supposed to cycle up naked,
 maybe next time

The croissant was pants so I won’t bore you with the third photo of one today instead here is a picture of Andrew finishing about 30 mins later ranting about tar.

No croissant photo but Andrew cycles uphill like one so here's a photo of him instead

The stoney tar had taken its toll causing a broken derailleur and slow puncture in our group so by the time everyone was at the top, group photo had been taken, bikes fixed and lunch eaten it had been 2.5 hours since I reached the summit and I was itching to go. Just as we set off I noticed I too had a slow puncture so I was last down a very nice long descent.

Fabulous descent from Tourmalet

As soon as we reached the bottom it was off again up Col d’Aspin (13 km, 5% av, 8.3% max, 650m ascent). Another lovely climb that started gentle but turned brutal over the last 5 km as it winded through the woods. This was much more the type of climb that me and Andrew are used to from our trips to Italy and Slovenia.

The climb up Col d'Aspin was a much more woody one

Once at the top it was a race to beat the local cow over the finish line.

Race to get to the top of the Col d'Aspin for maximum KOM points
(although I seem to be the only one counting)

The cow was gracious in defeat but had put her bike away before the photo was taken.

Celebrating a stunning victory over the local cow

There was no cafe or croissant at the top which was probably good as 4 croissants in one day might be a bit much. Andrew turned up 15 mins later with a big finish impressing the local paparazzi. 

Andrew completing his climb up Aspin

This just left the decent and ride through the valley to today’s hotel. Andrew decide to make a break leaving me to lead in the rest of the over 50s team home. However this moment of madness lead to suspension from the old peoples team and a hefty fine. Karma was maintained when he got lost in town looking for the hotel, meaning my peloton got back first and I was able to baggy the best bed.

Stunning views from top Col d'Aspin

It was another great, if rather long, day of cycling. I got maximum KoM points and Andrew still holds the best over 60s rider jersey. Things had been better on the croissant front too but I’m increasingly concerned that decent cafes will be hard to come by on the TdF as the two I tried today, at the bottom and top of the Tourmalet, were both distinctly average despite the stunning views

Tomorrow’s climbs are slightly less well known so hopefully may have better offerings.

Todays Route

Cafe ratings

Hotel du Fronton, Itaxassou. 5.8

Cafe Du Souloe 5.4

Terrace cafe Tourmalet 6.1

Tourmalet summit cafe 5.9

Croissant ratings

Venue	Freshness	Frenchness	Flavour	score
Heathrow	4	3	10.9	17.9
Bellevue hotel	5	4	12.7	21.7
Krakada patisserie, Itxassou	7	7.8	14.1	28.9
L’Auberge de l’Etable, Montory	7.5	7.3	13	27.8
Chez Pierre d’Agos	2	2	6	10
Terrace, Tourmalet	7.8	7.5	16.4	31.7
Top Tourmalet	2	2.5	8	12.5
8
9
10
11
12
13
15

Stats

	Miles	Av Speed (MPH)	Time on Bike (H:M)	Metres climbed
Day 1	81.9	15	5:27	1751
Day 2	71.5	13.37	5:20	2010
Day 3	60	11.4	5:05	2499
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Overall	213.4	13.4	15:52	6260