Lets find a Cafe (or tearoom)

Lets find a Cafe (or tearoom)

Locations of reviewed cafes

For more information on the Cafes I have visited and the latest cafe cycle news go to http://www.cake-crusader.co.uk/

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Friday 22 June 2018

Across the Pyrenees Day 6. (Climbing Col de Pailheres)

Across the Pyrenees,
Day 6,
Ax les Thermes to Saint Cyprien.
The final day of our trip had the second longest climb and it started right out of the hotel. But before that it was the last chance for a hotel to deliver me the Ultimate croissant (UC). It turned out to be the best breakfast croissant of the week but it lost points for being mini and currently holds second place overall with one more croissant opportunity to come later today.
Croissants too small to be the UC
It had been raining during our petit dejeuner but the clouds were now clearing and the day warming up as we set off up Col de Pailheres (18.2 km, 7.1% av, 12 % max, 1300 m ascent). Once again Des (the machine) challenged me to race to the top claiming he was going to get into my head (he didn't) but once again he shot away at the start. By a kilometre into the climb he had built up a decent lead and was almost out of sight. I was sad that he learnt nothing from yesterday and had not remembered it was a marathon not a sprint.
Des races off into an early lead on the final climb of the tour
I caught him up at about 3 km and although Des was determined not to let me pass as soon as we hit the first steep slope he was entering my manor and I knew he I would have to teach him another cycling lesson, that hopefully he will never forget. So that’s what I did for him.
Leaving Des behind as the gradient kicked up
It was very cold and cloudy on the rest of the ascent so I was looking forward to getting my warm clothes from the van when I summited.
Looking down the switch backs as the weather got colder
But apparently I had done it very quickly and beat the van up. When he arrived Claude said it was the fastest he could remember (probably due to: a. Des”s domestique work at the bottom and b. He has been trained to say that to the punters like me) so I’ll be getting the colouring set out as soon as I’m home to make myself an official fastest climber certificate to go with my KOM one.
Waiting for the van at the top
As it was cold at the top and very misty, then there was no time to stop so after I had put my jacket on I set off on the down hill part. Although I seem to be good at getting up a Col I’m not so tasty going down, especially with the number of hair pin bends on this descent. 
A tricky set of bends at start of this descent
Once down the steep bit it was another more gentle rolling ride to Axxt and our cafe stop. As I entered the town Des caught me up clawing back the 10 or so minutes he lost on the climb.
Outside what turned out to be best cafe of the week
Le Central cafe had no croissants but they directed me to the local patisserie which really delivered. It was the last croissant in town and turned out to be the best I had found to date so I crowned it the Ultimate croissant.
The Ultimate croissant
When bit by bit the other members of the party eventually arrived they all told me that it was the best coffee all week, my hot chocolate had been good too making central cafe Axxt the number 1 cafe and I will recommend it for the TdF riders to stop at for refreshments.

By the time everyone had made it to the cafe, had some coffee and got ready to set off again, the villagers had arranged a leaving party for me and Des as we had been there so long we were now part of the local community.

From here things petered out a bit as it was a further 70 mile ride to the sea along some fairly flat roads, although with wind behind we flew along.
Very fast stretch of road if a bit dull
There were two more mini cols to hop over but neither worth writing home or blogging about. As we got nearer the sea the roads seemed to get busier but with our new found peloton skills we made it there in one piece.
Top of last mini climb as we waved goodbye to the Pyrenees
We had accomplished the mission and made it to the Mediterranean. It was so hot by this point I did find myself diving in for a celebratory cooling off.
About to dive in the Med
So what have we learnt.
1. If you get up all the climbs first and become the self appointed KoM winner then no one else but you seems to care, however often you mention it.
2. It is possible to find very good croissants in France (quel surprise) although occasionally not as good as the ones at Heathrow airport.
3. The best cafe I find on a trip is often the last one and readers may start thinking I’m doing it for dramatic effect (I’m not).
4. I’m now in the mood to watch the Tour de France when it starts in a couple of weeks although I could have just read the build up in cycling weekly and saved a lot of effort.

Route

Cafe ratings
Hotel du Fronton, Itaxassou. 5.8
Cafe Du Souloe 5.4
Terrace cafe Tourmalet 6.1
Tourmalet summit cafe 5.9
Le Faisan Dore 7.3
Le Globe 8.1
Le Central, Axxt 9.1

Croissant ratings
Venue
 Freshness
 Frenchness
 Flavour
Score
Heathrow
4
3
10.9
17.9
Bellevue hotel
5
4
12.7
21.7
Krakada patisserie, Itxassou
7
7.8
14.1
28.9
L’Auberge de l’Etable, Montory
7.5
7.3
13
27.8
Chez Pierre d’Agos
2
2
6
10
Terrace, Tourmalet
7.8
7.5
16.4
31.7
Top Tourmalet
2
2.5
8
12.5
Hotel Pons
8.1
8
17
33.1
Le Faisan Dore
5.6
6.8
13.8.
25.9
L’ Horizon hotel
8.3
7
17
32.3
Le Globe cafe
7
7.6
15.8
30.4
Le Chateau
8.7
6.4
17.6
32.7
Patisserie, Axxt
8.2
8.1
17.2
33.5

Stats

 
Miles
Av Speed (MPH)
Time on Bike (H:M)
Metres climbed
 Day 1 
81.9
15
5:27
1751
 Day 2
71.5
13.37
5:20
2010
 Day 3 
60
11.4
5:05
2499
 Day 4 
84
14.7
5:55
1836
 Day 5 
65.3
13.1
4:59
1787
 Day 6 
95.6
14.34
6:39
1777
 Overall
458.3
13.71
33:25
11660

Thursday 21 June 2018

Across the Pyrenees Day 5. (Climbing Col de Port and Col de Marmare)

Across the Pyrenees,
Day 5,
Lorp Sentaraille to Ax les Thermes
After yesterday’s long day and steep climb there were some tired looking bodies at breakfast this morning so the hopes of holding a tight peloton to the first climb looked small. And small was the best way of describing this mornings croissant offering which was a shame as it was a very good one but I couldn’t have a mini croissant stealing first place.
Mini croissant for today's breakfast
The morning was a day of pelotons, punctures, pastry’s and panting as surprisingly we started cycling in a nice peloton along by the river and held it together.
A rather solid peloton for the start of stage 5
Two of our group then decided to make a break for the next cafe stop and were rewarded with a long wait as a puncture needing attention in the main pack. As self appointed team inner tube changer I volunteered to fix it. The first tube I was handed turned out to already be punctured so also had to be changed for one which turned out to have a broken valve. Eventually a proper British inner tube was found and I had us back on the road just as our support vehicle arrived. (Thanks for turning up, I said).
Expertly demonstrating my inner tube changing skills 3 times
A short stop at the next cafe, which turned out to have excellent (if not winning croissant) and apparently the best coffee of the week, got the group back together. It was voted our finest cafe to date and one worth the TdF riders stopping out if they require refreshments during the race here.
Best cafe to date
Yesterday evening, fellow group member Des challenged me to race up the next col (col de Port, 12.6km, 4.7% av, 6.5% max, 630m ascent). I was a little worried as it was not steep enough for my liking and as Des is pretty speedy on the flat then the incline may not take it out of him. As we started he shot off into the distance but I remembered the story of the tortoise and the hare and before half way I passed him.
Passing Des as per Essops fable
Des has much to learn about pacing a climb and today I felt I had helped by teaching him a cycling lesson, all part of the service. Although, as it turned out later, he is a quick learner. With no one left to race I was passed by a small French rider so I took him on instead as we battled each other up the rest of the Col until he did me with his sprint finish. Damn you little French cyclist.
Reaching the summit first but behind the little French cyclist
After a rather long lunch break and now over an hour behind schedule it was time for a long descent to the start of the next much steeper climb.
Bikes having a rest before a nice descent
This was an unnamed climb but over 2 miles long and very steep and by now it was very hot. Once again Des threw down the gauntlet but I was more confident on this terrain. I went for a pacey start but despite his heavy breathing Des was hanging on. As I drew ahead, albeit slowly, I thought he would give up but he kept at it as the gap only gradually grew and I made it up first knowing I had had to work pretty hard to maintain my maximum KoM points (although nobody else seems to be counting).
At the top of the steep climb
It was so hot a quick shower under the local village tap was order of the day.
This village had sensibly provide a tap at the top
From here we had the most scenic section to date through 12 miles of lumpy road with magnificent views which the camera barely does justice to.
Magnificent views of the Pyrenees in action
Sadly the final col (col de Marmare) was closed so we could only do the first 6km. When I arrived I discovered Des was a fast learner as he had ridden the previous section quickly and was already halfway up the climb. Despite my best effort I had no chance to catch him and by the time I got to our bail out point I found he had already set off for the hotel. I had already more than enough KoM points to give up one here and be crowned King of the Mountains tomorrow (by me) so I didn’t begrudge him his win.
Des's head start was to big as I reached the top in second place
I gave up the chase and enjoyed more splendid views before arriving at the Hotel some time before Andrew allowing me to claim the double bed (again). It’s tough love but hopefully he will respond with a faster time on the final leg to the Mediterranean Sea tomorrow.

Route

Cafe ratings
Hotel du Fronton, Itaxassou. 5.8
Cafe Du Souloe 5.4
Terrace cafe Tourmalet 6.1
Tourmalet summit cafe 5.9
Le Faisan Dore 7.3
Le Globe 8.1

Croissant ratings

Venue
 Freshness
 Frenchness
 Flavour
Score
Heathrow
4
3
10.9
17.9
Bellevue hotel
5
4
12.7
21.7
Krakada patisserie, Itxassou
7
7.8
14.1
28.9
L’Auberge de l’Etable, Montory
7.5
7.3
13
27.8
Chez Pierre d’Agos
2
2
6
10
Terrace, Tourmalet
7.8
7.5
16.4
31.7
Top Tourmalet
2
2.5
8
12.5
Hotel Pons
8.1
8
17
33.1
Le Faisan Dore
5.6
6.8
13.8.
25.9
L’ Horizon hotel
8.3
7
17
32.3
Le Globe cafe
7
7.6
15.8
30.4
12
13
15

Stats

 
Miles
Av Speed (MPH)
Time on Bike (H:M)
Metres climbed
 Day 1 
81.9
15
5:27
1751
 Day 2
71.5
13.37
5:20
2010
 Day 3 
60
11.4
5:05
2499
 Day 4 
84
14.7
5:55
1836
 Day 5 
65.3
13.1
4:59
1787
 Day 6 
 Overall
362.7
13.55
26:46
9883